Influence of water depth on the wave height, wave run-up and front velocities

This report researches the influence of shallow foreshores on the wave height, wave run-up height and velocities in the context of the COM. This research is part of the KPP (Kennis Primaire Processen / knowledge primary processes) VOW (Versterking Onderzoek Waterveiligheid / strengthening flood safety research) project. Within the KPP-VOW project, the influence of shallow foreshores on the overtopping discharge was researched between 2017-2019. This is summarised by Van Steeg et al. (2020). Three datasets consisting of small- and large-scale physical model experiments and validated numerical simulations were analyzed. The datasets cover a wide range of dimensionless parameters, most important among them the Iribarren number, wave steepness, relative water depth and relative crest height. The tested 1D models include flat beds, smooth slopes and are forced with long-crested waves. To research the influence of roughness, berms, cross-shore variations and oblique wave attack on the influence of water depth additional (physical and numerical) experiments are recommended.